Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.